La ruta argentina del vino, del Carlón a la alta gama / The Argentinian wine route, from Carlón to t

El vino en Argentina comienza a popularizarse con los inmigrantes, pero ya para entonces la bebida había recorrido un largo camino, que había comenzado por Europa, en la época de la colonia, explica el historiador Felipe Pigna.

"La gente acá tenía un vino para ricos y un vino para pobres. El vino para ricos era, básicamente, importado de Málaga y Francia. Y el de los pobres se tomaba en la pulpería", resume Pigna.

Ese "vino para pobres" era el “carlón”, al que se le agregaba mosto para que no llegara avinagrado, porque tardaba dos meses en llegar a Buenos Aires desde Mendoza.

Pero, en verdad según Pigna, la bebida popular era el aguardiente. "El vino empieza popularizarse con los inmigrantes, cuando ya tenemos una producción, una gran cantidad de bodegas y un mercado de consumo. El migrante tiene en su dieta el vino", precisa el historiador.

Wine in Argentina begins to become popular with immigrants, but by then the drink had come a long way, which had begun in Europe, at the time of the colony, explains the historian Felipe Pigna. "The people here had a wine for the rich and a wine for the poor, wine for the rich was basically imported from Málaga and France, and the poor was taken in the pulpería", summarizes Pigna. That "wine for the poor" was the "carlón", to which must was added so that it did not arrive vinegary, because it took two months to reach Buenos Aires from Mendoza. But, in truth according to Pigna, the popular drink was brandy. "The wine begins to popularize with immigrants, when we already have a production, a large number of wineries and a consumer market, the migrant has wine in his diet," the historian points out.

Recién a partir de los '80 y los '90 del siglo XIX se crea un "mercado serio" y con la llegada del ferrocarril a Mendoza ya se mueven grandes volúmenes de producción, que le van a permitir a la Argentina convertirse, cuarenta años más tarde, en un importante productor y consumidor. De todos modos, en aquellos años '20 la élite seguía tomando vino importado y poco vino argentino. "Para los años '30 y '40; sin embargo, ya hay buen vino, lo que podríamos denominar de alta gama", detalla Pigna, y cita como ejemplo las bodegas Arizu y Norton.

Luego, en los '30, en una primera gran crisis se arrancaron muchas hectáreas de viñedos y se derramaron muchísimos hectolitros de vino. La vitivinicultura sufrió una segunda crisis, pero seguida esta vez de una reconversión, a partir de los '70 y los '80, hasta que en los '90, de la mano de enólogos como el francés Michel Roland, "que pensaron en apuntar más a la calidad que a la cantidad", se empezó a producir y a exportar vinos de alta gama.

Only from the '80s and the' 90s of the nineteenth century a "serious market" was created and with the arrival of the railroad to Mendoza, large volumes of production are already moving, which will allow Argentina to become, forty more years late, in an important producer and consumer. Anyway, in those years '20 the elite was still taking imported wine and little Argentine wine. "For the '30s and' 40s, however, there is already good wine, what could be called high-end," says Pigna, citing as an example Arizu and Norton wineries. Then, in the '30s, in a first great crisis, many hectares of vineyards were uprooted and a lot of hectoliters of wine were spilled. The vitivinicultura underwent a second crisis, but followed this time of a reconversion, from the '70 and the '80, until in the '90, by the hand of winemakers like the Frenchman Michel Roland, "who thought to aim more to the quality that to the quantity ", began to produce and export high-end wines.

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Fuente / Source: Telam.

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